AN UNWANTED PROMOTION
"Bad news," I said to a friend and fellow Bordeaux-lover, "Larcis Ducasse has been elevated to Premier Grand Cru Classe status." It had caught my eye in Wine Spectator where it was mentioned on passing. My friend sighed and nodded in agreement. Here goes another one, we both thought, a gem we had grown to love, that we purchased at reasonable prices, was surely poised for the stratosphere, now that it joined the rarefied circle in which the best of St. Emillion resides.This wine first caught my fancy with its 1999 vintage which was ready to drink some seven, eight[...]
INVESTING IN WINE?
A recent Wall Street Journal article (5/31/2014) discussed the pros and cons of wine investing in a rather dry, technical exposition. Investing in wine? asked the headline. Sip, don't gulp.It went on to explain what a fickle investment wine is. While wine prices have beat the inflation rate by an average 5.3% per year (in records that go all the way back to 1899), investment returns on wine have been "lumpy and inconsistent", falling very low in the aftermath of the Great Depression, rising very high during the Nazi occupation of France. and in recent decades, with the entry of[...]
DISTINCT AMONG THE INDISTINCT WITHIN THE PINOT FAMILY
Does anyone find the various varietals that start with the word pinot confusing? I certainly was, for many years.They actually all are cousins originating from pinot noir, a grape that has unstable genes prone to mutations. Pinot meuniere is a red variant, often used in champagne and occasionally as a still wine similar in nose and palate to its progenitor. Pinot gris is a mutation that produces white wines, the grape known as pinot grigio in Italy. While gris and grigio are synonymous and the grapes identical, some classify them as different varietals, mainly because stylistically, the Italian expression of[...]
A COINCIDENCE
Our Friday night wine tasting group, free-style as it is, with anyone who wants to participate bringing any wine they wish, is sometimes conducive to wild, unbelievable coincidences. We had one recently.The format is a blind tasting, loosely ordered, with whites first, then light reds, to heavy reds, the participants attempting to guess the identity of each wine tasted. Since no-one knows what others brought, the sequence of the wines tasted is somewhat random.On this occasion, a red we sampled seemed clearly from the Southern Rhone, with hints of smoke and tobacco on the nose, a crisp, fruity entry, mild[...]
PRIMITIVO PRIMER WITH PAOLO; ITALIAN & AMERICAN COUSINS WITH ZINFANDEL
At the luxurious Masseria Torre Maizza, a few kilometers inland from the scenic fishing village of Savelletri on the shores of the Adriatic, our knowledgeable master of ceremonies Paolo, a matire'd for breakfast and lunch and sommelier for dinner, recommended the above wine to accompany seafood salad, Apulian aubergines and Adriatic fish fillet in foil. It did. Quite well.It was a Primitivo, a grape mainly cultivated in Puglia, and one we mostly encountered during our visit there in blends with other local grapes, such as Negroamaro, Aglianico and French varietals such as Merlot (keeping lock-step with other regions in Italy[...]
AIRBORNE WINE
A frequent question I encounter, since I travel to so many wine regions so frequently, is whether I transport wine back home with me from those regions. Nowadays my answer to this is always, "no, you can find it all here in the U.S." But that's not quite true, and this curt statement does not reflect the numerous different experiences I've had dealing with this issue.The story starts in 1985 with a trip to Club Med in Cancun, Mexico, where I discovered Kahlua, along with a sexy Bostonian with a cute midriff. I packed a large bottle of Kahlua back[...]